Leader

Pictures coming.
I finally got a chance to head down to the INOX movie theatre in downtown Hyderabad to view the movie entitled “Leader”. I was accompanied by the assistant director named Sashi. He was a young man around 28 years old and spent some time studying film over in the US. Sashi spoke very good English and had a great deal of patience and understanding with me. He would be my personal Telugu interpreter over the next three hours as we watched the movie together.

Every Sekhar Kammula movie I’ve seen to this point has primarily been a love story but right from the beginning I could tell that this was going to be totally different. Basically the film is about a young politician (Arjun) who’s father (the current Chief Minister of an Indian state) dies in a car bombing. He is convinced by his grieving mother to run for the position replacing his father and shortly into the movie he is elected as the new controversial Chief Minister. Arjun announces his new agenda of eliminating corruption within the government and needless to say is not very popular with his highly corrupt cabinet. The movie is refreshingly unpredictable as there are surprises before intermission and a twist at the end.

I’m not a professional movie critic but as a human being I think this film has to be one of the most important movies ever made in Andhra Pradesh. When I go to a movie I want to be either entertained or changed as a person after watching. This is one of those movies that should change the way you think, especially if you are an Indian citizen. We all know that corruption occurs in every country but it seems to be especially ingrained in Indian politics and culture. This film shows how one man’s unselfish agenda and a desire to do the right thing can pave the way for national change. The process is obviously not smooth or easy as the lead character has to make tough decisions that are not always right but the key is that Arjun maintains an attitude of service to the people. At one point when he is the Chief Minister standing before a man of much lower caste, Arjun bends down to the ground sitting cross-legged apologizing to the man for making a wrong decision. Of course the other high and mighty cabinet members looked shocked at this gesture. The central theme of the movie is “Be a leader not a politician”.
Corruption is like a dam blocking the natural flow of a river. Maybe a movie like Leader can punch a small hole in the dam to weaken it and others will follow to continue to apply pressure. It’s an important movie and at least should sow the seeds of change in a few minds of the new generation. Sekhar Kammula took a risk creating this movie and I would dare other directors throughout India to address the same topic. In my short visit with Sekhar just a few days ago I got the impression that he put a great deal of his own heart and soul into this movie. Leader is an extension of his values. I have been cruising around the towns and villages of India over the past two weeks and it amazes me that on the one hand you have this futuristic high tech growth occurring, but on the other hand the country is still stuck in ancient corrupt business practices. One of the things that Americans are good at is coming together as a nation when it involves a righteous cause. As history teaches us, change does not occur overnight. Often individuals risk losing their jobs, their families, even their lives, but nothing will make you feel more alive than being involved in a righteous cause. It’s time to grow up India. Let the debates begin, turn the lights on, maybe even the shadows will speak. Every coffee shop, barber shop, restaurant and pub should be talking about the political issues that this movie raises. If you are cynical or apathetic about being able to combat corruption then you are already lost. If you are tired of living in a world where the rule of law is merely a suggestion or your ability to deal with the government and other businesses relies more on your pocketbook rather than a rulebook then this movie will give you hope.

On the way back to Hyderabad

Pictures and write up coming.

Women of the village

The women of the village were absolutely amazing. There was something very special about the way they lived. The men may be the backbone but the women are the lifeblood of the village. In general, life in the village is hard but the women made it look easy. They were the first to greet all visitors with a true servant's heart. Every now and then the women would take time to converse and relax, but most of the time they were either gathered in a circle on the floor chopping vegetables for the next meal, taking care of the children, tending the cows or carrying some large basket on their head or hips. Everyone knew their role and their responsibilities. The women lived life with energy and a sense of being as tough as the land. They also appeared very confident and secure. When I took photographs, the concept of smiling for the camera was somewhat foreign as most would quickly get serious and solemn looking, but I can assure you that the women smiled a great deal and random outbursts of laughter occurred often. Of course they may have been laughing at me but that's beside the point!

There also appeared to be no difference from the way an Indian woman of the village dressed and the way women of the city dressed. Every day I saw them dressed in very elegant and colorful sari's no matter the time or task at hand. In the mind of this western man the country is filled with princesses (ha ha). Maybe it's because the colorful sari dress is so different and boldly bright compared to U.S. fashion, or maybe it's the way a princess is portrayed in my childhood fairy tale books but that's the feeling I get when I see someone dressed that way.

Needless to say, the Indian women I encountered in the village define the words hospitable, tough, beautiful and VERY unselfish.

Children of the village

My "flock" of children that followed me everywhere. They definitely were not shy. I felt like a rock star the two days being in the village as all of the children wanted to shake my hand and ask me questions about America. I also got the feeling that the "shake of the hand" is not a very common thing in India but everyone kind of felt it was the right thing to do with me. One day I was on the porch trying to converse with Manohar's relatives and a crowd of people started forming on the walls of the temple across the street just to get a look at the "westerner". They enjoyed copying many of my gestures such as nodding my head in agreement or giving a "thumbs up" sign. Communicating was very difficult when Manohar wasn't around but I gave it a shot. It was like a game of charades and everyone wanted to play. We seldom truly understood each other but always got a laugh. Many times the children would form circles around me and try to teach me Telugu. I took French and German classes in college but Telugu may top both of them as far as difficulty to learn but maybe it's just my age showing.

What can be accomplished in a morning?

Arriving at his cousins house we were immediately greeted by his aunt, 3 nieces and their mother. We sat down on the standard 3 foot high cement slabs located on the front covered porch and were served an appetizer of dried dates and shortly after a plate of some sort of whole grain “grits”. Good way to start the morning eating healthy. After we finished our food and continued to converse, a special guest walked up from road and peeked its head into the porch – a friendly white cow with a hump on its back. I naturally wanted a picture taken with my arm around the cow and the children got a good laugh. We ended with a small cup of hot sweet milk. Another fifty feet down the alley we arrived at another relative’s house. Again we were served another tasty light meal and a cup of chai tea. I was worried that if we stopped at another house I may not be able down another bite! During our visits I noticed that Manohar was talking Telugu to a farmer and his cousin as they followed us down the alley. As we jumped back on the motorcycle little did I know that we were headed to a piece of land that Manohar was looking to purchase. He told me that he had been wanting to buy land to build a special home for elderly woman in the village now for 20 years. It just so happens that today was the day Manohar was bound and determined to make the deal. After another chai tea back at his cousins house and a little compromise from the land owner, Manohar was the proud owner of an acre of land at the edge of town and the beginning of a dream come true. It’s amazing what can be accomplished in a morning on a leisurely motorcycle ride with Manohar. You never know what to expect.

Hot Chai Tea Anyone?

One morning Manohar and I took off on a motorcycle heading to his father’s village about 3 kilometers away. His motorcycle driving skills seem to be mediocre at best but I jumped on the back of the bike looking for some fun and decided the cool breeze would feel good. We stopped along the way at a little vendor in town selling hot chai tea which tasted especially good as the early morning sun was rising.

Village life in India

That evening we headed to the village of Murogudy where the festival was held. This is where I would spend the next two days. The entire village would participate in the festival but I mostly interacted with 40 – 50 members of Manohar’s extended family which covered homes on two entire blocks. One thing to keep in mind is that everyone in the village speaks Telugu so I need Manohar around to be my interpreter. The minute we arrived and I sat down on a patio at his Uncle’s home I was offered authentic Indian food as made in a remote village with plenty of rice, spice and curds. Everything is fresh and in the case of the curds right from the cow living with us in a special portion of the house. All the relatives gathered around to watch the “westerner” eat and converse with the elders. I didn’t realize I was the main attraction at this comedy club but all of the adults and especially the children had laughs at my expense. As I began eating the food with my fingers as a “true” Indian would I noticed that after about the first 4 or 5 bites there was a small fire brewing in my mouth and I needed a shot from my new best friend on the trip called “Cold bottled water”. After the laughter died down I approached each bite a little more gingerly and made sure the water was always nearby. The adults all had questions about living in the U.S. and the children were more interested in pictures of my family on the Iphone. After the meal, I was served a very hot cup of Chi Tea and quickly learned how to hold the small metal cup with no handles by the lip – not by the sides … I repeat … not by the sides. Again, I love providing so much entertainment.

The two days included sleeping outdoors on cots with mosquito nets. The nights were hot and humid. The days were hot in the upper 90’s with no A/C available anywhere. Your only relief was to be had sitting under ceiling fans on covered porches. My first few days of the vacation being pampered in Hyderabad were officially over. I was now in an Indian village with no refrigeration and no A/C. I was sharing space with cows, dogs and chickens on dirt roads while battling mosquitos. Sleeping was difficult. As if the heat and humidity wasn’t bad enough, half the town continued celebrating until 4:00am each night. When I use the word celebrate here I’m not talking about a few people listening to music with lively conversation around a small campfire, I’m talking 20 hand drums … 10 fully lighted torches, huge booming fireworks and maybe 50 people chanting loudly in unison as they parade through the town. As the parade faded in the distance and I started dozing off, a loud BOOM would occur seemingly right over our house giving me a startle. Frustrated, I look over to my left at the cot next to mine where Manohar was still snoring like bear in hibernation! Man, he was sawing down some major trees. I believe that guy could sleep through a gun battle. The roosters also appear to be different here in India where they begin crowing at 4:30 am as opposed to waiting for sunrise as roosters in the US. I could have used an extra hour.

Arriving in Produttur

We arrived in the town of Produttur where Manohar's parents and brother lives. The trip took around 7 hours so we were ready for a little rest and relaxation. Within 30 minutes I was eating Whole grain rice, egg plant curry and lamb biryani that Manohar's mother had whipped up. One of the themes here in India is that we seem to eat every 2 hours. Serving food is a form of hospitality and of course everyone is so nice and the food is so good ... let's eat drink and be merry ... and for me personally put on another 10 pounds. Although the town did not have all of the modern shops like Hyderabad, leave it to Manohar to find a Barber shop near by where we received a special Indian head message (see pictures). It was a very unique experience as it involved pouring a pint of olive oil on my head followed by strong circular messaging/scratching and subtle smacks to the head. Sounds rough but it actually felt pretty good.

Road Trip to Manohar's Village

As I soon found out cars don't necessarily rule the road here in India. You will often see cows, large herds of goats, monkeys and water buffalos taking their time. Again, the honk of our horn is really just a way of saying hello (even the animals have learned this) because I didn't see them move any faster. You just need to take the same attitude and enjoy the scenery. No worries ... no hurries.

Intermission

I've decided to forget keeping track of days on my BLOG because there is so much to do and see in India that the days and nights are all running together so from this point forward I'm going to start posting BLOG entries by topic.

Day 2 - Driving in India is only for trained professionals

At around 1:00pm the temperature was in the mid 90's with dry heat. It feels like Texas in late June (not too hot yet). From the office Ravi (Manohar's driver) and I headed out in the afternoon to the Shilparamam artisan market. I’ve heard rumors about how crazy the traffic is in India but until you experience it you won’t believe it. It appears to me that half of the vehicles are motorcycles, with the other half being composed of a combination of 3-wheeled moto cars and standard automobiles. Now visualize this … take thousands of those vehicles and spin them off into different directions with no rules while honking on your horn every 5 seconds. My number one observation in India so far is that honking your horn is just another way of saying “Hello, I’m here”. We went through several red lights, were cut off ten times, almost side-swipped 20 times and honked the horn 30 times and before you know it we were at our destination! No worries. When we arrived at the market I found that it was surrounded by a green vegetated park and a small pond with row boats. It is filled with silk cothing, jewelry, pottery, woodworks and textiles. Of course I took this as an opportunity to shop for my wife Jan (age unknown), daughter Taylor (18 going on 21) and son Austin (16). Unfortunately for Austin there is not as much merchandise here for us guys as there is for the girls so I may have to shop another day for him. As for my girls I was immediately attracted to a stand selling silk wraps and scarves from Kashmir. I took my shoes off and sat Indian style on a stack of rugs as the merchant from Kashmir presented me with a multitude of wraps. We first had to differentiate the "real" silk from the somewhat blended silk by passing the material through a small ring. If the material passed through smoothly without getting stuck it was deemed real. Of course I wanted to focus on the real stuff so that cut our selection in half. As the merchant placed color after color and design after design in front of us I could see Ravi from the corner of my eye wondering what he had gotten himself into. Thirty minutes later and a bit lighter in the pocket I purchased a few colorful wraps and headed back out to the streets of the market. I probably could have gotten a better deal if I had bargained a little more but I just treat it as an extra fee for the experience itself. We browsed around for a little while longer but my shopping brain was running low and I was ready to get back to eating and drinking. Life is good. By the way, Ravi the driver is the guy standing under the Shilparamam sign. Pictures to capture the essence of driving in India will be coming soon.

Day 2 - Tea time with Director Sekhar Kammula

Speaking of the movie “Leader”, how about arriving back at Manohar’s office in the afternoon only to find the Director Sekhar Kammula sitting at the lounge. How much better is this day going to get. A little background is necessary here, Manohar introduced me to Telagu movies by providing a copy of Sekhar’s movie “Anand” and asked me to check it out. I liked the movie so much that he began supplying me with early copies of every movie that Sekhar directed from that point forward which included Godavri and Happy Days. I hadn’t actually met Sekhar until Manohar introduced us back in Dallas, Texas at the fifty day celebration of Sekhar’s hit movie Godavri so he remembered me from my review of “Anand” at the Irving convention center. As we sat having snacks and commenting on those days back in Dallas, I could only think of how approachable and down to earth he really is. Sekhar is a very modest and unassuming person. He truly listens to input and seems to be unchanged by success. The fifty day mark for “Leader” being released occurs on April 9th so he and Manohar started brewing plans for a festive tour through various cities in the state of Andhra Pradesh promoting the movie. He knew I had not seen the movie yet and wanted to set up a special viewing for me tomorrow with his assistant director Sashi to interpret. What an honor.

Day 2 - Meeting with a movie star

On our way to the office this morning Manohar and I took a little detour to the house of the Indian movie star Kota Srinivas Rao. As we made our way up to the gated mansion we were greeted by one of his multiple servants, removed our shoes and were seated in an entry room which displayed scenes of his various roles on the walls and housed many of his awards. When he entered the room there was definitely an aura of greatness about him but yet he made us feel very welcomed. He played roles of characters that were larger than life and almost always a villain. After we shot a few pictures together in the entry way he was gracious enough to show us the rest of his house one room at a time. The architecture was very modern with four floors all made of white marble and stair rails made of stainless steel. Each level had an impressive balcony and rooms very organized with built-in compartments for storage which in some cases literally opened up as part of a wall. Very cool. We left with a hand shake and a promise that I would attend his current movie out called “Leader”.

Day 2 - Rise and shine

Last night I went to bed around 10:00pm and woke up at 9:00am. I can't remember the last time I got 11 hours sleep ... maybe college (25 years ago). Of course my nose can only resist the aroma of Lakshmi's cooking for so long as I cruised into the dining room and found before me a plate of poories khurma, coffee and a glass of fresh guava juice. Fantastic! Afterwards their nine year old daughter Sindu showed me photos of Manohar and Lakshmi's families. We will be joining them at a festival this next Friday in Manohar's home village. I'm beginning to believe that living in India is just one big festival within a festival! If your town is not having a festival then there is probably one close by that is.

Day 1 - Blast Off

Manohar and I arrived in Hyderabad late last night around 4:00am. We stayed up visiting and eating a great breakfast of dosa with a spicy peanut chutney prepared by Manohar's wife Lakshmi until around 7:00am when the jet lag finally kicked in and I fell asleep with a full belly and a comfortable bed. You couldn't ask for a better host than Manohar and his family.

Of course we slept in late and took it slow and easy the first day after the flight. Manohar brought me to his offices on Jubilee Hill overlooking Hyderabad. You couldn't ask for a better view. It felt more like an Italian Villa with four stories and large balconies on each level. The weather was cool as it rained earlier and we opened the windows and doorways to let a gentle breeze through the office. After meeting the employees and drinking some Indian Chi Tea, Manohar and I left the office by foot getting a better feel for the area as we walked the block. He insisted on leaving my cell phone behind which I thought was sort of odd but after we were half way around the block I found out why ... Manohar had already arranged an appointment at a really nice massage/spa called "The Fifth Element". I had a VERY relaxing 90 minute massage and came back to the office feeling like a wet noodle. It officially cured my jet lag! Time to head back to the apartment and eat some good Indian food. As I type this blog Manohar is preparing my agenda for the next 10 days. I can only imagine. Until tomorrow ...